At Christmas, it always pays to count the pennies, but new evidence suggests shoppers should also count the moral cost of what they buy. Complaints against British cotton traders and popular high street brands show that both participate in the systematic exploitation of foreign workers.
Last week, the European Centre for Constitutional and Human Rights filed complaints against two British traders, Cargill Cotton and ICT Cotton, for purchasing cotton obtained through child labour in Uzbekistan, where for two months every year 450,000 children are shut out of school to take part in the harvest. The investigation highlights the difficulty of tracing the raw materials used in the products we buy; even if manufacturers adhere to strict codes of conduct.
At the same time Marks & Spencer, Next, Monsoon, Debenhams and the Arcadia group have been accused by two anti-poverty groups, War on Want and Labour behind the Label, of failing to ensure basic economic rights for Indian workers producing their clothes.
A joint report reveals that workers in two factories were excluded from social security benefits, stopped from forming trade unions and denied payment for overtime, all of which breaks Indian labour law.
The report admits British retailers do have the power to make a difference, but criticises a “lack of will to take the steps needed”.
Next, Arcadia and Debenhams have yet to commit to addressing their pricing policies, which have a significant impact on workers’ conditions by encouraging last-minute production changes, constant switching of suppliers and low wages.
