Small things speak volumes about a society. Positive vignettes from my fifth fact-finding mission in Iraqi Kurdistan include very low crime levels – shopkeepers leave their wares unguarded on the pavement overnight – and evidence that the beleaguered Christian minority in the rest of Iraq has been welcomed in their thousands here in Kurdistan. Women’s rights are still a big concern. Half the students are women and many are prominent in public life but domestic violence and genital mutilation are alarmingly high.
Yet the scenery and cooler climate here could help the development of significant tourist and agricultural sectors. As Richard Hammond said on Top Gear recently, it is one of the world’s most stunningly beautiful places.
Saddam Hussein, of course, didn’t want the Kurds to enjoy this.
One of my most moving experiences was to visit the memorial at Halabja, symbol of the genocide against the Kurds – nearly 200,000 people – perpetrated by Saddam.
The Kurds are keen to escape the past with dynamic growth and education. New houses, hotels and shops can be seen, while wages have soared. They can overcome their history, but not their geography and cannot choose their neighbours. But relations with Turkey have been transformed and the Turkish consul says he now envisages deeper economic integration with Iraq.
Relations between the Kurdistan region and the federal government have long been strained. But President Barzani told me how he brokered the deal that formed the new coalition in Baghdad after nine months of stasis.
Now they need to turn the deal into reality and make federalism work by resolving critical issues concerning oil, revenues and disputed territories.
And the Kurdish unions, now seen as social partners, need increased clout to help sustain the case for social justice here
